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Wine
August 2007 - A Day Trip to Chablis
Debbie and I have been writing for Elegant Lifestyle Magazine for over 5 years and due to her knack for staying in touch with folks, we have been invited to some exquisite events. Several weeks ago we went to a luncheon that was truly outstanding, hosted by Remy Cointreau.
The event was a private tasting of wines from Chablis at Crú, a Dallas restaurant and wine bar. The presenter, Leticia Calvo, export manager for Domaine Laroche, was visiting from France. Talk about an incredible speaker and knowledgeable wine expert. Her unbridled passion for the region was truly contagious.
Leticia walked us through their outstanding white wines from the Chablis region of France. The wines were paired with fabulous foods executed by Chef Brad Ebey and each course was designed to complement the wine.
Ms. Calvo explained the care that goes into the wines of wine maker, Michel Laroche. Michel is the fifth generation of a family that has been making wines in Chablis since 1850. Michel studied Oenology at the University of Dijon, and joined his father in gradually increasing the company's premium vineyard holdings from six hectares in the late 1960's, to over 100 hectares today. His Burgundy headquarters is in a ninth century monastery called Obédiencerie (after whom his top wine is named).
Domaine Laroche starts with quality grapes planted in quality soil and they continually fight to preserve the natural soil and the sub-soil that make Chablis so unique. Because Chablis is cool, they use the least harmful treatments in order to produce perfectly ripe fruit, even though the yield may be less. Chardonnay is the only Chablis grape grown, but the grade of the wine changes based on the position it is planted on the slope of the vineyard. The most southern slope is labled Grand Cru, followed by Premier Cru, Chablis and Petit Chablis. Each wine offered a different nuance that teased the palate for another taste.
But, let’s talk about the menu. First we enjoyed a pan seared scallop with wild mushroom risotto with a blood orange reduction that barely outlined the plate. Each bite was creamy, earthy, and had a hint of sweetness. The wines we enjoyed were Domaine Laroche Chablis Saint Martin 2005 and Domaine Laroche Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaudevey 2004.
Letitcia spoke just before dining about the wines, the terroir (soil) and the history of the family. The geography, she explained, is unique and lends a flinty/mineral flavor to the wines that are unique to the Chablis.
The next course was an olive oil poached white asparagus salad with egg mousse, a brioche crouton and again, a subtle fruit was added. There was a hint of raspberry puree around the edge of the plate, complementing not combatting the delicate flavors. The wines perfectly cleansed the palate, allowing the flavors of the food to shine and the finish of the wines each offered a multitiude of nuances. As the wines became less chilled and opened up, they changed slightly becoming better and better with each sip.We compared Domaine Laroche Chablis Premier Cru Les Fourchaumes Vielles Vignes 2005 and Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots 2003.
I thought we were moving onto dessert and coffee, but there was another course served. A perfectly roasted beef tenderloin with a white truffle potato terrine followed. As the beef was served, a waft of a sweet, almost ginger scent, intriqued my senses. This fig jus accompanied the beef and blended nicely with the next two wines offered.We paired both a white wine, the Laroche Mas la Chevaliere Blanc 2004 and the Laroche La Croix Chevaliere, 2003, a soft red, with the entree. These wines came from vineyards in the South of France yet still highlighted the quality of work this producer is bringing us.
Dessert (banana bread pudding with caramel) was served and the wonderful meal ended.We all stood to say our goodbyes and joked about continuing our lunch in France someday. The afternoon was truly reminiscent of our travels in Europe - lingering, laughing and sharing the commaraderie of fellow foodies and wine connoisseurs.
Celebrate Life Every Day
David & Debbie Gore
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